Profile
About
The Women Who Have Climbed All 14 8000m Peaks
In 2010, the mountaineering world was watching two women race. Then a dispute over a summit claim on Kangchenjunga changed the outcome, and one finish became the accepted first. Years later, a new standard changed the record book again. Few records nirmal purja have a more tangled but human history.
This article follows that history. If you’re curious about who has climbed all 14 8000m peaks among women, here’s how the key names fit into the broad roster and the strict true summit table.
Edurne Pasaban, 2010
Pasaban finished on Shishapangma in May 2010. She became the first woman broadly recognized with the full collection after the dispute around Oh Eun sun’s Kangchenjunga claim. The roster lists her as using oxygen on Everest and none on the other peaks.
The page marks her as the first broadly recognized woman, not the strict first. Those two words, broad and strict, are the key to reading every woman’s record on the list.
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, 2011
Kaltenbrunner finished on K2 in August 2011, and Guinness’ archived legacy record credits her as the first woman to complete all 14 without supplementary oxygen. K2 was her fourteenth.
The page adds that modern true summit rules are a separate category. So her place in legacy history stands, and the strict category simply sits alongside it. Both are described plainly, with no judgment attached.
Dong Hong Juan, 2023
Under the modern reclassification, Guinness recognizes Dong Hong Juan of China as the first woman to complete all 14 true summits. She finished on April 26, 2023.
That date matches another milestone. The same day, Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa began their 92 day run, which finished on July 27, 2023, showing how busy that period was in 8000er history.
He Jing, 2025
He Jing returned to Manaslu in September 2025 and reached its verified true summit. 8000ers.com records the correction as completing all 14 true summits without supplementary oxygen. Seven Summit Treks describes it as the first verified women’s completion of that category.
It’s a good example of a correction climb working as intended. A mountain returns to the list as the last step, and a new strict record appears.
